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Holy Jordan

Amman's Citadel, more than an archaeological site

August 22, 2024

Rising from one of Amman’s seven historic hills, the famed Jabal Al-Qal’a (the Amman Citadel) stands as a living testament to the city’s seemingly infinite history. This L-shaped hill in the heart of Jordan’s capital has witnessed the rise and fall of several civilizations over the millennia –each leaving its mark on this sacred ground. Today, the Citadel is an archaeological marvel and a symbol of cultural and religious diversity, where the echoes of ancient beliefs and customs meet contemporary pilgrims and travelers.

The history of the Citadel goes all the way back to the Neolithic, with evidence of continuous human habitation dating back to 1800 BCE. As the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Ammon, known as “Rabbah” or “Rabbath Ammon,” the hill served as an important political and religious center. Over the centuries, it fell under the influence of powerful empires: the Neo-Assyrian, Neo-Babylonian, Ptolemaic, Seleucid, Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad. Each of these civilizations helped weave the complex, rich tapestry of the Citadel, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the world.

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(Photo credit: Visit Jordan) 

Three points of interest

Among the Citadel’s most prominent features are the remains of three key structures, each representing a different faith that once flourished here. The Temple of Hercules, dating from the 2nd century AD, is a striking example of Roman religious architecture. Dedicated to the mythical hero Hercules, the temple is clear evidence of the Roman Empire’s influence on the region, and its typical blending local traditions with its own.

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(Photo credit: Visit Jordan) 

Adjacent to the Roman temple is a Byzantine church –a testament to the spread of Christianity in the region during the 3rd century. Although the church is now in ruins, its presence on the citadel underscores the hill’s importance as a spiritual center during the Byzantine era, when Christianity was the dominant faith. The Byzantines used the Roman temple as a quarry to build their own structures atop the hill.

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(Photo credit: Visit Jordan) 

The third significant structure is the Umayyad Palace, built in the 7th century AD. This palace complex, which includes a mosque, is an example of early Islamic architecture, with a design heavily influenced by Byzantine architecture. The mosque within the palace is particularly noteworthy as an early example of the Persian-style apadana hall, a design typically found in Persia and Mesopotamia. This blend of styles reflects the cultural and religious syncretism that characterized the Umayyad period.

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(Photo credit: Fadi Amirah Photography) 

The coexistence of these three religious structures within the walls of the citadel is a powerful symbol of the site’s role as a crossroad of faiths and traditions. Paganism, Christianity, and Islam all found a place here, creating a palimpsest of beliefs that continues to resonate through the ages. Even today, visitors to the Citadel can sense the layers of history that have shaped Amman into the vibrant and diverse city that it is.

More than just an archaeological site, the Amman Citadel is a sacred space where history, culture and religion converge. As you walk among the ruins, you are walking through the remnants of the past, where different traditions once thrived side by side and continue to coexist. This unique aspect of the Citadel makes it an essential destination for anyone seeking to understand Jordan’s rich cultural heritage and the enduring legacy of Amman’s ancient hilltop.

By Daniel Esparza
Daniel Esparza

Daniel Esparza is currently an associate professor of communication ethics and aesthetics at the Ramon Llull University in Barcelona. He holds a PhD in Religion from Columbia University (NYC). He is also an art historian who has developed communicational projects and campaigns for online and print media to promote the cultural and religious heritage of the Americas and the Mediterranean. He is a founding member of Viator Media and the Pilgrimaps project.

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