Amman’s history spans thousands of years. It is no wonder that the Jordanian capital is a crossroads of civilizations, and a city of major religious significance in many different traditions. Its name itself is derived from the Ammonites, a Semitic people who founded their capital, Rabbath Ammon, in the 13th century BCE. Mentioned several times in the Hebrew Bible, this ancient city, now called Amman, is a living testament to the layers of history that have shaped its landscape.
The Ammonites are descendants of Lot, according to biblical tradition. They played a main role in shaping the religious and political dynamics of the region. The national god of the Ammonites, Milkom, was often described as a god of war and sovereignty and seen as granting them protection and victory in battle. It is no wonder that Rabbath Ammon soon became a stronghold –both spiritually and militarily.
However, in the Hellenistic period, after Alexander the Great’s conquest, the name “Rabbath Amon” fell into desuse: Ptolemy II Philadelphus renamed the city (after himself) as “Philadelphia” –the city of brotherly love. It became part of the Decapolis, the famed group of ten cities that flourished under Greco-Roman influence. Indeed, Philadelphia was a thriving center of commerce and culture during this period, and its transformation from an Ammonite religious capital to a cosmopolitan Greco-Roman city underscores the complex religious evolution of the region. The ancient worship of Milkom faded as Greek gods and Roman emperors were honored in the city’s temples, marking a dramatic shift in the religious landscape.
(Ruins of the Roman Temple of Hercules on the Citadel Hill of Amman; Photo credit: Ken Kaminesky)
One of the most fascinating areas of Amman is Jabal al-Qala’a, the Citadel Hill that towers over the city. This historic site is home to the ruins of the Roman Temple of Hercules, built during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. The towering columns of this temple stand as a remnant of the city’s Roman past, when pagan gods and heroes were worshipped in grandiose temples. Near the Roman ruins is the 8th-century Umayyad Palace, where early Islamic rulers established a grand administrative center. The palace, known for its impressive dome, showcases the rise of Islam as the dominant religious and political force in the region.
Jabal al-Qala’a, with its mix of Roman and Umayyad structures, offers a striking glimpse into Amman’s multifaceted past. The Temple of Hercules symbolizes the city’s place in the Roman Empire, while the Umayyad Palace reflects its later transformation under Islamic rule. This hill is not just a collection of ruins; it is a place where different civilizations have left their mark, each adding another layer to Amman’s history –indeed, the ruins of a Byzantine basilica stand between the Roman temple and the Umayyad palace, making the Citadel Hill a religious palimpsest of sorts.
(The Umayyad Palace on the Citadel Hill)
Needless to say, the Ammonites also left their mark in the form of ancient ruins such as Rujm Al-Malfouf, a stone tower that once served as a watchtower over their capital. These remnants remind us of Amman’s early history, when its inhabitants were as much a part of the biblical world as they were of the later Greek, Roman, and Islamic spheres.
Today, Amman is a city where past, present, and future meet. Echoes of ancient Ammonite worship, Greco-Roman glory, Byzantine power, and Islamic rule remain alive in its hills, valleys, and architecture. It is a city that has carried the weight of its religious and cultural history into the present, blending ancient narratives with modern life.