Jordanian gastronomy brings together Mediterranean, Arabic, and Levantine cultures, ingredients, and spices. It is thus extraordinarily rich in flavors and meaning. Travelers get to discover this tradition when invited to share, in large communal plates, some Bedouin barbecue –the famed Wadi Rum zarb.
Like tea, zarb is a quintessential symbol of Bedouin hospitality –a virtue deeply rooted in desert spirituality. Bedouin culture is characterized, first and foremost, by warmth and generosity toward guests. An invitation to share a zarb is a welcoming gesture of friendship, as hosts strive to make guests feel at home.
Hospitality, or diyafa, is one of the pillars of the Bedouin code of honor, known as sharaf. This virtue requires that even enemies be welcomed and, if necessary, fed. Generosity is a manifestation of sharaf, and in many Bedouin societies it is common practice to offer gifts that cannot be refused. Thus, sharing food is much more than just filling one’s belly: it is an entire social and cultural institution.
Zarb is a cooking technique that dates back to ancient times, when Bedouin tribes crossed the many different Jordanian landscapes. In the absence of conventional stoves or ovens, Bedouins developed an ingenious method of cooking in the hot desert sand. They dig a hole in the ground, place a metal tray of meat and vegetables, and cover everything with palm leaves and sand. This technique allows the food to cook slowly, preserving all its flavors.
Zarb includes lamb, chicken, or goat meat, along with carrots, potatoes, onions, and tomatoes. Spices such as cumin, cinnamon, and pepper provide an aromatic flavor. The choice of meat is crucial, with lamb being the most traditional and tasty option.
An important detail in the preparation of zarb is the use of ghada firewood. Its embers reach very high temperatures, ensuring even and efficient cooking. The embers are placed at the bottom of the hole before the food is placed.
The preparation of zarb is a ritual in itself. The ingredients are layered on the tray, starting with the meat and ending with the vegetables and spices. The tray is then covered with palm leaves (sometimes clothes) and a layer of hot sand. The dish is slowly cooked for several hours, resulting in tender, juicy meat and perfectly cooked vegetables. During those hours, people engage in conversation, sharing tea and a tent.
When ready, the zarb is removed from the sand and presented on the floor, over a carpet or a low table, inviting guests to sit around the plate. This act of sharing food directly from the tray and conversing while eating strengthens community bonds and reveals Bedouin hospitality.
Zarb is usually accompanied by freshly baked bread, a fresh cucumber and tomato salad, and a yogurt-based, garlicky sauce. Traditionally, mint tea or coffee is served as a beverage to complement the flavors of the dish.
Zarb is a delicious meal, sure. But it is also a cultural experience that captures the essence of Bedouin hospitality and spirituality. Sharing zarb means tapping into a rich and deep culinary tradition that connects us to the history and welcoming spirit of Jordan. If you have the opportunity to try this barbeque while wandering in the Wadi Rum (or anywhere else in Jordan) do not hesitate. It will be an experience that will leave you with indelible memories and a renewed appreciation for the warmth and generosity of the Bedouin people.