Wadi Rum, the famed Jordanian sandstone and granite desert also known as the Valley of the Moon covers approximately 720 square kilometers. Among its otherworldly landscapes, the Seven Pillars of Wisdom stand out. These huge rocky masses rise abruptly from the desert floor, offering a visual spectacle that captures the imagination of visitors and locals alike.
These natural columns are the result of millions of years of erosion. Wind and water have sculpted the rock in a way that seems almost intentional. The sunlight, whether at sunrise or sunset, highlights the red and gold overtones of the stones, creating a dream-like panorama.
But how did these exceptional geologic formations get this name? Was it a place of worship in ancient times? Are they deemed holy? The answer is rather surprising.
In fact, this majestic natural monument is called Jebel al-Mazmar in Arabic –which broadly translates to the mountain of the plague. Locals, historians, and scholars all agree that the place has no previously known religious connotations. But the name that made it famous, Seven Pillars of Wisdom, surely does – albeit somehow unexpectedly.
Wadi Rum was the site of the famous Arab revolt led by Thomas Edward Lawrence (better known as Lawrence of Arabia) in the early 20th century. The celebrated archaeologist and British intelligence agent became world famous for his role during World War I in helping Arab tribes defeat and expel the Ottoman Empire from the region.
Lawrence wrote The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, an autobiographical work in which he reported his experiences during the conflict. In the third part of it, the author beautifully describes the Wadi Rum – a valley he crossed several times during his war campaigns.
“We wheeled into the avenue of Rumm, still gorgeous in sunset colour; the cliffs as red as the clouds in the west, like them in scale and in the level bar they raised against the sky. Again we felt how Rumm inhibited excitement by its serene beauty. Such whelming greatness dwarfed us, stripped off the cloak of laughter in which we had ridden over the jocund flats.
Night came down, and the valley became a mind-landscape. The invisible cliffs boded as presences; imagination tried to piece out the plan of their battlements by tracing the dark pattern they cut in the canopy of stars.” (The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, Chapter LXVII)
But why did Lawrence choose this name for his book? His biographers claim that, some years earlier, he was writing another story – one regarding seven different Middle Eastern cities that he had explored during his time as an archaeologist. He chose the title based on a well-known Bible verse:
“Wisdom has built her house; she has hewn out its seven pillars. She has prepared her meat and mixed her wine; she has also set her table” (Proverbs 9, 1).
We will never know what the contents of that first book were. When the war began, Lawrence decided to keep that title for his memoir, and discard the rest. But his love of the desert, and his admiration for the Wadi Rum in particular, meant that after his death this name would be given to the impressive geologic formation that he treasured.
The Seven Pillars of Wisdom are thus a geological attraction with a deep cultural and historical significance. Wadi Rum has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and the Bedouin tribes of the area have left their mark through petroglyphs, inscriptions, and different archaeological remains. Lawrence’s love for the Rum added an extra layer of history, charming tourists, historians and archaeology enthusiasts from around the world.