Holy Jordan Blog

Pella, City of a Thousand Faces: A City Between Stones, Wind, and Memory

Written by Inma Álvarez | Sep 23, 2025 6:30:00 PM

Pella, located in northwestern Jordan near the modern village of Tabaqat Fahl, is one of the country’s most significant archaeological sites and a hidden gem for travelers seeking biblical history and spiritual travel experiences. Unlike Jerash, with its restored colonnades, or Petra’s monumental facades, Pella reveals its significance more subtly than through scale or spectacle. Instead, it offers a quieter, layered experience: a landscape where centuries of human activity remain partly visible and partly concealed, awaiting interpretation.

Set on a series of green slopes overlooking the Jordan Valley—a landscape deeply tied to biblical sites and sacred history—Pella occupies terrain that appears, at first glance, to be little more than rolling hills scattered with broken stones. But closer observation reveals a palimpsest of settlement spanning over 6,000 years—one of the longest continuous habitation sequences in the region.

Systematic excavations led by the University of Sydney since 1979 have revealed layers of ancient ruins in Jordan,  including those from the Roman, Byzantine, and early Islamic through the Islamic Middle Ages. The earliest strata include domestic structures and fortifications from the 4th millennium BCE. Higher up, classical-era features emerge: a partially reconstructed Roman theatre, the remains of public baths fed by a natural spring, and a large Byzantine basilica repurposed from a civic building. Many structures still bear traces of the earthquake that struck the region in the 8th century CE—collapsed columns, shattered walls, and rooms left in sudden disarray.

 

 

Pella’s archaeological significance lies not only in its chronological range but also in its relatively undisturbed character. Large portions of the site remain unexcavated, giving it the quality of an open-air archive rather than a curated monument. Unlike more heavily restored sites, Pella maintains an atmosphere of ongoing discovery. Objects recovered—from pottery and coins to tools, amulets, and statuary—are displayed in a modest museum nearby.

The site is accessible without entry fees or formal tours. Interpretation panels are sparse, and infrastructure is minimal. For some, this lack of development may seem limiting. For others, it allows for a more contemplative encounter with the landscape. Absent are the crowds and predetermined routes. Instead, visitors walk among stones and grasses, accompanied by the wind and the occasional sounds of birds or herders: a serene setting that invites mindfulness and a deeper connection with the land.

 

 

Pella resists reduction into a single historical narrative. Its remains reflect a convergence of cultures—Canaanite, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic—each leaving traces in architecture, material culture, and urban form. Though not named directly in biblical texts, Pella is believed to have been the destination of early Christian communities fleeing Jerusalem during the Jewish-Roman conflicts of the 1st century CE. Later, it became a provincial Byzantine center before being struck by the 749 CE earthquake.

Today, Pella endures as a site of incomplete excavation and quiet resonance. It is not a place of spectacle, but of persistence. The absence of modern reconstructions or interpretive overlays invites visitors to consider what remains, what is missing, and what may yet emerge from beneath the soil.

In an era of rapid tourism and simplified histories, Pella stands as a reminder that the past is often more complex, more layered, and less fully revealed than we might expect.